"Kinsai” processing is a technique used in Kyoyuzen in which gold, silver and other foils and metallic powder are used to enhance and glamorize the dyeing of colors, etc.
We wondered if the craftsmanship that has been involved in Kimono production for more than 30 years could be transmitted to other areas besides Kimono.
A traditional craftsmanship that should be passed on.
"Nobumi Miyake has been involved in the production of Kimono bride costumes for more than 30 years. He has been involved in all processes from white fabric to design composition, underdrawing, thread placement, Yuzen dyeing, anti-dyeing process, dyeing, Kinsai, finishing, etc., and has been involved in the creation of thousands of Kimonos, including colored Uchikake, white Kimono, and pulled Furisode, and was certified as a traditional Yuzen (hand-painted section and Kinsai) craftsman by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry in 2018.
He launched the brand NS Plus in 2019 to see if he can turn his skills into products that meet the needs of the modern world."
"Hiromu Miyake grew up watching his father, a craftsman, from an early age, and was inspired to become craftsman himself. He now works for his father as a craftsman making Kimonos.
He works hard at his training every day to surpass his father in becoming a great craftsman as soon as possible."
"Covering with gold or silver leaf is a technique of gluing gold or silver foil, golden powder or lamé, etc., to the entire area to be gilded on the dyed fabric.
First, glue is applied evenly to the entire area to be processed with a brush (a brush with strong, firm bristles is used to apply the glue to the fabric), and then the foil is placed on top of the brush and lightly pressed down with cotton or other materials to adhere to it. To prevent the foil from creasing, it is very important to concentrate as well as to use the skill. Once the foil is applied, it is then left to dry naturally, and the excess foil and sandpaper is removed with a brush."
Shake the foil down with fine gold dust (sandpaper) onto the adhesive coated dough to adhere it.
The sand box is a bamboo tube with a wire mesh on one side, and the size of the sand grains is determined by the coarseness of the mesh. The coarseness of the wire mesh determines the size of the grains. The gold leaf is placed in the sand box and the glue is placed on the surface. When the sandpaper is shaken, the craftsman has a picture of the finished product in his mind, and the finished product is a beautiful expression due to the delicacy of the technique, including the amount of pressure and force. It is also an advanced technique to create a blurring effect using gold, silver, and colored foil.
When applying Kinsai, a special tape is applied to the fabric, and then a small knife is used to cut out the areas to be gilded along the pattern to create different gold and silver finishes for each pattern. The skill of cutting the tape without cutting the important fabric is essential.
"Gorgeous decoration with gold and silver foils and “Honkai raden” etc.
Delicate techniques such as gold “Kukuri”, pressed foil, cut foil, sliding foil, and “Sunako” express the unique beauty of Kyoyuzen. The gold coloring that makes Yuzen gorgeous and lively. We express the world of elegance and dignity. Kinsai is the general term for the technology of processing various metal foils and powdered materials to be adhered to the Kimono, and various techniques are intricately intertwined to create a single expression. It is the job of the goldsmith to bring out and control the subtle textures and nuances of gold."
